Shingle Roof Maintenance Tips For Homeowners

Published Oct 16, 20
5 min read

15 Surprising Stats About Wind Damaged Shingles



When roof shingles are not installed properly, you might discover that they raise, leak, or even fall off during the next windstorm. This kind of mistake can cost you more cash in the long-run. There are also specific safety concerns to be knowledgeable about when carrying out DIY roof repair work.

A roofing repair can end up being a lot more unsafe if you attempt to carry out a repair work when it is windy, rainy, or when the roof is slick with wet leaves or debris. Transporting heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can also posture a security threat. Other security concerns originate from using unfamiliar products or devices.

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When you select to go the DIY route with your roofing system repair, you not only run the risk of losing cash but also your valuable time and energy. Changing shingles on your roofing is tough work that can take hours and even days, depending upon the degree of the damage. As the materials are large, heavy, and difficult to steer, replacing roofing shingles can be tough on the body.

It can be annoying to find loose shingles thrown about your yard after a storm. However, this is a typical issue that has a fairly easy fix. If your roof is in otherwise great condition, just the harmed section itself can be replaced to avoid water from leaking under the nearby shingles.

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For more details on how to fix roofing shingles blown off by a storm or to set up a roofing system examination, contact our expert roofing system repair work professionals at Beyond Outsides today. replacing shingles.

There are 2 methods by which shingles are connected to a roofing: roofing nails or adhesive strips. Normally roof nails have brief shanks, sharp points, and large, flat heads that enable them to penetrate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when connected, develops a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle beneath it.

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It's excellent that the roof is not leaking (you didn't point out that) however incorrect setup will produce leakages in the future. So, confirming a couple of key items and then formally alerting your builder (by accredited, return invoice mail) of incorrect setup will protect your rights. I 'd inspect the following: Variety of nails in each shingle: Each roof manufacturer needs a specific number of nails into each shingle, usually 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 mph winds would need 5 nails per shingle.) You'll discover this info on each wrapper around each bundle of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can discover it on the producer's site. If you don't know the name of the maker, call the builder. Nail Positioning: I see this wrong on a great deal of jobs.

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Nails should be above the top of the eliminated in the 3-tab shingle, but about 1" below the mastic strip. The majority of roofers wish to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for 2 factors: a) it misses the shingle directly below, so there are only 4 nails holding the shingle on the roofing system rather of 8 nails, and b) it develops a little dip in the shingle due to the fact that it triggers the shingle to bend down over the top edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is positioning a quarter size dab of roofing mastic "by hand" under each shingle. However, the majority of roofing manufacturers require hand tabbing "if the shingles have not self-sealed in a sufficient time." This is a bit approximate, however "sufficient time" implies "within the assurance period." (You can get that validated by the roof producer.) So, the method to test this is to increase on the roof and attempt to lift a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (asphalt roof shingles).

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The roofer will inform you the shingles will "self tab" down. That suggests they anticipate the sun heating the shingle up till it sticks to the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it might not get warm enough in your location or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

Many roofing contractors will extend that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That offers the opportunity for the wind to lift more of the shingle and creates improper nailing, (missing the top of the lower shingle, etc.) Too except nails: Nails must totally penetrate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roof sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I believe.

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